So here’s the thing about visiting DC landmarks in December—you get bragging rights AND the authentic freezing experience that George Washington probably didn’t even have to deal with. But I’m getting ahead of myself.
Last Tuesday, we decided to tackle the Washington Monument during the kind of cold snap that makes your nose hairs freeze the second you step outside. We’re talking mid-30s temps, folks. The kind of weather where you can’t decide if it’s jacket-and-scarf cold or full-on arctic expedition cold (spoiler: it’s both). But that late bus didn’t care about our chattering teeth—it showed up exactly when you’d expect it to: late. Because of course it did.
The Monument’s Wild Journey
Here’s something wild about this 555-foot obelisk towering over the National Mall: construction started way back in 1848, but it didn’t actually open to the public until 1888. That’s a 40-year gap! And not because they were being super meticulous about it either. The thing is, funding dried up, control of the project got tangled up in bureaucratic battles, and then the Civil War happened. I mean, when you’ve got a civil war going on, finishing a monument to a president from the 1700s probably doesn’t make the priority list. Fair enough.
By the 1850s, things had pretty much stalled out completely. Construction was suspended for literally 23 years. Robert Mills, the original architect, had died, and everyone was basically like, “Well, that was a fun project that totally didn’t happen.”
But then in 1879, the Army Corps of Engineers swooped in and said, “You know what? Let’s actually finish this thing.” Colonel Thomas Lincoln Casey took over and completely redesigned the foundation because apparently the original team’s work wasn’t going to cut it for a monument that would end up weighing over 40,000 tons. No pressure, right? The guy literally had to reinforce the ground beneath it by adding a massive concrete slab that increased the load-bearing area by two and a half times. And here I thought laying a patio was complicated.
When It Finally Opened (And Why It’s Impressive)
When it was completed in 1884 and dedicated in 1885, the Washington Monument was the tallest structure in the entire world. Not just in America—the world. Meanwhile, we have skyscrapers now that make it look like a fancy needle, but back then? Absolutely mind-blowing. And when it finally opened to the public in 1888, people probably went absolutely bananas.
Our Actual Visit (The Quiet Kind)
Fast forward to our trip: we finally made it up to the observation deck after boarding the bus only much later than scheduled (thanks, DC Metro). And let me tell you, the mid-30s temperature at ground level was much colder than what we felt at 500 feet up (it’s heated).
Here’s where it got really cool—there were about 20 other folks at the top. Not packed, not empty, just right. Enough people to feel like a proper destination, but way fewer than you’d expect for a monument this iconic. The 500-foot observation level, with its eight windows (two facing each direction), had plenty of elbow room. No pushing through crowds, no waiting to get a clear shot of the Capitol or the White House in the distance. Just us and a handful of other hardy tourists, all shivering together while taking in some genuinely breathtaking views.
We could see the Capitol Building gleaming in the pale winter sun, the White House sitting there majestically, Arlington National Cemetery sprawling across the Potomac, and the Washington National Cathedral. In winter, everything has that crystalline quality—it’s like the city shows off differently in the cold. There’s no haze, no humidity softening the edges. It’s just stunning.
The National Christmas Tree Moment
After we came back down to Earth (literally), we decided to swing by the National Christmas Tree on the Ellipse, just south of the White House. And let me tell you, this tree has a story that’s almost as epic as the Monument’s.
The whole tradition started way back in 1923 when President Calvin Coolidge walked from the White House and literally pushed a button to light a 48-foot Balsam fir in front of the whole country. Can you imagine? An engineer named Frederick Morris Feiker came up with the idea—apparently, the Society for Electrical Development wanted to promote the use of electric Christmas lights, and lighting a big tree at the White House seemed like the perfect way to show off how cool electricity was. It worked! The tradition stuck around for over a century now.
What’s wild is that the tree hasn’t always been in the same spot. It moved to Sherman Park in 1924, got damaged by the lights, had to be replaced, moved to Lafayette Park in 1934, back to the Ellipse in 1939, and finally settled on the White House grounds in 1941. The tree we saw has apparently been there for years, and honestly, all lit up during the holiday season with the White House in the background! We walked around the Pathway to Peace—those smaller trees representing all 50 states and the territories—and just soaked in the Christmas magic. Even in the freezing cold, there’s something genuinely special about standing there.
And Then There Was Old Ebbitt Grill
By this point, we were absolutely starving and our teeth were chattering so hard we sounded like wind chimes, so we headed to Old Ebbitt Grill for some serious warmth and food. This place? It’s a legend.
We’re talking Washington, DC’s oldest bar and restaurant—established in 1856 by innkeeper William E. Ebbitt himself. That’s almost 170 years of history right there. The place started as part of the Ebbitt House Hotel, which was actually famous for being the first hotel in DC to stay open all summer (wild flex for 1800s Washington). When the hotel got demolished in 1925 to make room for the National Press Building, the restaurant became its own stand-alone business, moved around a couple of times, and ended up at its current spot at 675 15th Street NW—which is literally steps from the White House.
The restaurant has been a haunt for politicians, celebrities, journalists, and basically anyone who wanted to be anywhere near DC’s power brokers. In fact, for years it’s had some of the highest sales of any restaurant in the entire country. It’s wild to think about how many important deals, scandals, and conversations have happened within those walls.
The Food = Actual Heaven
Walking in, the place has that perfect old-school saloon vibe—classy but not stuffy, warm and welcoming after we’d basically turned into popsicles outside. The menu is huge and leans into classic American cuisine with a serious emphasis on fresh seafood. We’re talking freshly shucked oysters (they even have an annual “Oyster Riot” event), steaks, chops, and house-made pastas. They’ve got this incredible New England Clam Chowder, Oysters Rockefeller, and a Duroc Pork Chop that people absolutely rave about.
We ordered a couple beers and couple of sandwiches, and dessert of course. And honestly, after being up at the Monument in the freezing cold and wandering around the Christmas Tree, sitting down with a warm meal at a place that’s been around since before the Civil War felt perfect. The kind of experience where the history of the place and the food just combine to make everything taste better.
The Takeaway
So yeah, the bus was late, yeah, it was absolutely freezing, but we got to stand 500 feet above DC with maybe 20 other folks, practically alone, taking in views from a monument that took 40 years to build—and only after being abandoned for 23 of those years. Then we walked through a century-old Christmas tradition, and finished it all off with a meal at a restaurant that’s been operating since 1856.
There’s something pretty special about that kind of persistence and history, you know? Plus, we got an elevator ride with a video explanation, comfortable observation decks, the magic of the National Christmas Tree lighting tradition, and the knowledge that we were standing inside the tallest free-standing stone structure of its kind in the world—all before warming up with some seriously delicious food at a place where actual history happened.
10/10, would freeze again. 🥶